Lake Superior

There are treasures to be found in and around Lake Taupō.

ALONG THE REMOTE western side of Lake Taupō, avid yachtsman Dave Nesbitt beams at his latest find. After 15 years of frequent skimming across the size-of-Singapore watery expanse, this is the first time he has clapped eyes on Te Papa Bay and its unusual waterfall. The sailor marvels at the astonishing water clarity and strangely sandy lake bed, created by silt thrown out from a water chute that seems to bubble up from beneath the lake’s surface. His German-born wife and crewmate Jess decide on a stack of flat rocks that would be the perfect spot to host a gourmet picnic spread.
    The Nesbitts operate Taupō Sailing Adventures, offering charters on their 14.3m sloop Kindred Spirit and Dave thought he knew every worthwhile nook on his beloved lake, but he is still discovering treasures around its edges.
    Most of this part of the lake is undeveloped and undisturbed by anything but birdsong. Near Rangiora Point, in a spot accessible only by boat, cliffs throw spectacular echoes. En route, trout leap at the base of a waterfall that plunges into the lake. Towering rock faces of ignimbrite and pumice hark back to the region’s violently volcanic past while an island, sacred to Ngāti Tūwharetoa people, is said to be guarded by a taniwha. There are plenty of gems to uncover on the land surrounding the lake, too, including a rejuvenated moonscape, ancient rainforest, glorious riverside bike trails and a living room-sized cafe tucked into the back of a fly-fishing shop.

ON THE WATER
Before venturing to New Zealand’s largest lake for the day, detour to Baked With Love cafe to gather victuals and check out the spectacular cakes made on site. With a little notice, owner Kim Forsythe will put together a tailored gourmet picnic.
After that, choose from any number of water activities: jet boating and white-water rafting, parasailing, jetskiing, sailing, kayaking or leaving the marina aboard a doughnut-shaped doughboat. Taupō Taxicat Adventures is new, designed to whiz visitors to lesser-known parts of the lake, like the Waihaha River, which opens into a lagoon with a tumbling waterfall.
“This is not a bad office,” Taxicat owner Ian Cammell says, from the helm of his twin-hulled steel boat that was purpose-built to carry kayaks. “The western bays are our version of the Abel Tasman, crossed with sounds. It’s the rugged beauty, the untouched wilderness.”
Cammell skippered a replica steamboat for 12 years but prefers this much more speedy craft, which allows him to ferry time-poor tourists to and from kayaking or sailing adventures across the water. Until now, only private boat owners could reach his favourite side of the lake and he reckons everyone should see it. He’s a natural tour guide who stops to chat with a fisherman about his catch and steers past the Ngātoroirangi Mine Bay Māori rock carvings, then spots where trout are jumping or a braided waterfall has appeared after recent rain.

Until now, only private boat owners could reach his favourite side of the lake and he reckons everyone should see it.

UP HIGH, DOWN LOW
A few minutes off the highway north of Taupō, the slightly misnamed Craters of the Moon hisses, plops and spews boiling mud and steamy sulphuric odours like any good geothermal attraction. The walkway cuts through a corner of Waipuwerawera Valley to showcase what is less of a lunar landscape and more of a regenerating thermal microclimate. Hardy kānuka and other intrepid native plants have sprung up, making the previously barren site far greener. Excellent interpretive signs and up-close geothermal action offer intriguing insight into the region’s geological history and what’s brewing beneath the earth’s surface.
For an immersive experience, the Wairakei Terraces hot pools are four minutes’ drive up the road. Silica in the water has a pleasing dual effect. Soaking in it leaves skin feeling silky, and deposits of the mineral have helped to create the terraced effect that give the complex its name and form a series of pools of varying temperatures. It’s an attractive, adults-only facility surrounded by bush and birdsong, with therapeutic massages on offer.
A helicopter ride delivers a bird’s eye perspective of the region’s considerable charms. The Robinson 44 is built for unimpeded views of the scene-stealing lake and snow-topped mountains beyond. A 15-minute ride with Heli Adventure Flights takes in more than the lake, though it does reveal its remarkable tropical-island-turquoise fringe from the air. Pilot Tyler Hall points out scoria domes, forestry, farmland, pretty bays and lakeside mansions before following the Waikato River back towards one of New Zealand’s most-visited natural attractions – Huka Falls.
Sate hunger pangs and feast your eyes at Lava Glass, also on the north side of town. It’s an ideal spot to grab locally roasted coffee and a chocolate-zucchini slice or more substantial platters, while admiring – or buying – glass and artworks created by Lynden Over and Christine Robb. Beyond the gallery and cafe, book a glassblowing tour or visit the sculpture garden that features more than 600 glass pieces.

EAST SIDE
Closer to water level, a ribbon of tarseal winds along the lake’s eastern side, hugging steep cliffs that keep houses and other man-made incursions at bay. In some places, the water is so glassy and clear, roadside trees cast shadows on the lake-bed. There are plenty of places to pull over and picnic with a view – the campground at Motutere, the marina at Motuoapa – but that’s not why travellers are stopping near the tiny marae settlement of Korohe.
A rural road veers inland to the rustic sign slung on a fence to mark the Korohe Horse Treks headquarters. This delightful, family-run operation takes nervy first-timers and experienced riders along the pumice-studded Waimarino River and into the forest, with equal doses of professionalism and warmth. Good as they are, the treks are only part of the fun. Meet Aroha, the endearingly affectionate dog, preschoolers who ride as easily as they breathe, and talk with Jon and Sammii Ellis about the big dreams they have for their children and community.

SOUTH END
At the southern tip of Lake Taupō, Turangi township is a base for skiers and hikers heading to Tongariro National Park. The village is looking more loved than it used to – it’s scrubbed itself up and injected public art as well as a small gallery to showcase the work of local artists. It’s also a magnet for fishers and adventurers seeking fat trout or an adrenaline buzz on board a raft.
However, you can also experience the town’s world-renowned river – and the childlike thrill of whizzing through a forest on two wheels – without getting wet. Tongariro River Rafting/Tongariro Mountain Biking offers electric mountain bike rental along with e-bike lessons and directions to the nearby Tongariro River Trail. It’s a gorgeous 15km loop ride that even newbies can tackle, over scenic swing bridges and through mature beech, fern, farmland, urban areas and past the entrance to Tongariro National Trout Centre.
Just off the trail, on a leafy suburban street, Creel Tackle House & Cafe is a wee gem of a place. Venture inside the rustic tackle shop to watch flies and floats being tied by hand, then step through to the back room where good food emerges from a tiny, busy kitchen. Stay for a chorizo beef burger with avocado and greens, caramelised onions and jalapeno. Or take the delicious raspberry slice to go.

NORTH END
While Taupō township is the obvious destination off SH1 at the top end of the lake, Kinloch is an increasingly popular holiday destination 20km west. Outside peak season, it’s a sleepy village with a swanky golf course, marina, swimming beach and a lakeside general store serving takeaway food alongside fresh produce and wine. Come summer, the place is buzzing with bach owners and mountain bikers or hikers tackling the “great lake trails” that fan out from the village. Three sections of the trail are accessible from Kinloch and a fourth section starts 45 minutes further west. Collectively, the trails range across lakeside clifftops and drop into tranquil bays, roaming through ravines and gorges, wetland and native forest.
For an urban fix of cafes, galleries and shopping, head to Taupō’s town centre. The corner of Ruapehu and Heuheu Streets is a fine place to start, given it has great examples of all three neatly in a row. Kura Gallery is narrow slip of a place, jammed with covetable pieces and flanked by an old favourite and a new kid on the block. Replete Cafe is approaching its 30th anniversary and still going strong, with its adjacent kitchenware store alongside. Spacecraft is a clothing and giftware shop with a strong focus on sustainability and New Zealand-made goods. Well-known ZeaYou Gallery has moved four blocks away, to sit above long-standing restaurant The Brantry. Sculpture and jewellery now occupy rooms on the top storey, along with paintings. It’s also worth scouring back-alleys and byways to spot artworks created during the annual Graffiato Street Art Festival.