Gisborne Gold

Nature’s best is showcased on the East Coast, a region brimming with fruits of the vine, autumn adventure trails and overflowing bags of seasonal abundance.

IF DOWNTOWN TAIRĀWHITI Gisborne was enrolled in a science class, it would be deemed geologically gifted. Three rivers meet on its doorstep, there’s a surf beach within walking distance and it is surrounded by 71,000ha of fertile land that has sprouted vineyards and citrus groves, and roadside stalls where brown paper bags are stuffed with avocados, apples, figs and other seasonal bounty. And of course, its east-leaning global location makes this the first city to see each sunrise.Gisborne would fare well in history classes, too. Centuries ago, Polynesian navigators are said to have steered the Horouta waka here and it is where Captain James Cook first stepped off the Endeavour and onto New Zealand soil. Historian Dame Anne Salmond described that foreshore as “a meeting place of cultures, of challenges and shootings, as well as friendly exchanges.” These days, visitors can expect friendly exchanges in vineyards and cafes, on ingenious railway-line bicycles, in the sea, under the stars or while wallowing in a beanbag at the movies.

SCREEN TIME
Dome Cinema is the brainchild of energetic entrepreneur Sally Shanks, who has artfully transformed part of a grand old wood-panelled building. In the late 1800s, Gisborne gentlemen chalked their billiard cues beneath three stained-glass domes on the upper storey. Now, the room hosts moviegoers who are directed to luxurious beanbags with matching beanbag footrests, or to old couches tucked beside standard lamps. Piles of cushions are distributed and plumped by the hostess, who also issues woollen blankets from a folded stack on the piano. Wooden side tables are designed to hold cocktails, half-time gourmet pizza, or snacks tipped into glass bowls to prevent package-rustling noises. The adjacent bar, with elaborate wallpaper and vintage portraits, opens onto a fairy-lit courtyard with mesmerising light projections on the far wall. Inside, tapas are served at wooden tables or plush banquette seating facing the small stage where the owner – also director and co-founder of award-winning textile sustainability business The Formary – occasionally moonlights as DJ. Shanks has also been known to compere bingo nights in the bar. “It’s hilarious,” she says. “If you’re not having fun, don’t do it.”

STAR LIGHT, STAR BRIGHT
In a paddock, 15 minutes’ drive away, respected amateur astronomer and high school science teacher John Drummond also entertains in the dark. The creator of Gisborne Astro Tours is an astro photographer and past president of the Royal Astronomical Society of New Zealand, with an infectious enthusiasm for his subject. As night falls, visitors are ushered into his rural Patutahi backyard classroom and offered a galactic history lesson to set the scene for the hands-on, eyes-on action that unfolds outside. With laser pointer in hand and guests craning their necks upwards, he points out notable constellations and passing satellites while sharing fun facts. The born teacher communicates equally well with squirming children, astrology boffins or near-ignorant night sky-gazers. There are multiple opportunities to view specific corners of the universe through one of the telescopes Drummond constantly swivels and refocuses to all the wonder he can.

SIDE BY SIDE
Dairy farmer-turned boat builder-turned tourism operator Geoff Main hit upon his “world first” rail cycling idea in the middle of the night. A cycle-mad boat designer was subsequently commissioned to create an aluminium chassis to connect two bicycles and sit on railway tracks. While the first Gisborne-built prototype worked beautifully, it took years to get the world’s first rail-bikes onto three disused stretches of rail line between Gisborne and Mahia. Main is a genial unhurried guide who encourages picnicking or swimming on the coastal routes, and knows the best places to find wild blackberries or seasonal fruit that grow on self-seeded trees alongside the rails. One ride includes a 1.5km rail tunnel, and a trail under development will take tourists to a monument erected on the site of a deadly 1938 flash flood. No need for helmets, he says. Technically, the vehicle is classed as a train. Riders sit side-by-side in pairs, and have the option of push bike or e-bike.

A DOWNHILL RIDE
One of the region’s most enjoyable off-rail cycle routes begins in the hills and winds back to the city by way of vineyards and back roads. The starting point is a former sheep farm planted by injured World War I returned soldier Douglas Cook. Cook’s legacy, the treasured Eastwoodhill National Arboretum of New Zealand, has 25km of walking tracks that meander among 130ha of trees and plants gathered from 81 countries. The collection includes more than 2300 species, most of which survived a nine-month sea journey wrapped in burlap sacks. More than 100 species are on the international extinction red list, ranking alongside silverback gorillas and polar bears in terms of rarity. The Parana pine grows like a weed at Eastwoodhill but is endangered in its native Chile. Curator Martin Weaver has ambitious ideas about native plant preservation and plans to collaborate with international universities and non-government organisations. “We aim to be a centre for global tree conservation,” he says. “If we’ve got it growing here, it’s our duty to protect it.” Cycle Gisborne owner Katrina Duncan delivers riders to the arboretum with their steeds – electric bikes are ideal on a windy day – as well as helmets, clip-on bags and instructions. From here, the 35km Eastwoodhill Express journey cuts down through a valley lined with farmhouses and sheep, before emerging into the region’s horticultural food basket. The latter section of the cycle trail zigzags along flat, quiet rural roads and residential areas off the tourist trail. Along the way, a trio of small vineyards offer cellar-door options to weigh down those bike bags and refuel with wine tastings and platter-style fare. Matawhero Wines is particularly charming, with its rustic tasting room, leafy garden and much-awarded wines. Too nice to leave? Stay in one of their stylish new self-contained cabins, which come with quality breakfast fixings and, naturally, a bottle of Matawhero wine to enjoy.

Main knows the best places to find wild blackberries or seasonal fruit that grow alongside the rails.

EAT UP
Visiting the Gisborne Farmers’ Market is a weekly ritual for former Aucklander Jane Mitchell, who strolls there to gather breakfast goodies for her guests each Saturday. She and husband Rob bought their Cedar House boutique accommodation business in 2020. Rob’s work brought them to Gisborne – he is chief executive of Rua Bioscience medicinal cannabis company – and the well-travelled couple have embraced provincial life. When we visit, she finds fresh blackberries, and avocados almost 30cm long. Expect to join a queue when the market opens at 9.30am. Also expect live music and wine tasting, Dutch fried oliebollen (doughnuts), baguettes, macadamia nuts and well-priced produce. Carnivores can buy a red Devon beef burger while vegans will want to head to the Phidus Cuisine stall, run by former restaurateurs, for freshly baked treats. Those who miss the market can stock up on Gisborne-grown goodies up the road, at Village Berries. The small fruit and vegetable store showcases local products, which include Kai-Rawhiti preserves and real fruit ice creams.

GET CULTURE
Ten sail-shaped markers pinpoint historic sites and provide a fine excuse to roam central Gisborne on foot. Walkers can use the Tupapa Heritage Trail app as they stroll 4km from Waikanae Beach, past tukutuku panels, beneath palm trees and along both sides of the river to finish atop Titirangi/ Kaiti Hill. App users can listen to a series of short video clips that reveal snippets of history told by descendants of the first people to reach and inhabit the region. Titirangi Reserve, at the river mouth facing the sea, has elevated walking and cycle trails across 35ha. Find a cenotaph erected for “the boys” by fellow WWI soldiers, a pōhutukawa planted by Princess Diana and an excellent 3D map that charts historic waka journeys from Polynesia. For more stories and historic taonga, head downhill to riverside Tairāwhiti Museum. Get close to the ridgepole of a carved pātaka (storehouse) that hails from the 1700s and has travelled to the United States and back. Or a tiheru (bailer) and fishhooks on loan from British museums. Exhibition rooms also showcase local art and an extraordinary collection of French Lalique glass vases. Look for art outside, courtesy of mural specialist Graeme Mudge and a more recent “artists for oceans” public art project in 2018. Find contemporary art for sale in Paulnache gallery – the gallery space is something of an artwork itself, or head to Ballance Street Village to find large cast resin, paintings, and contemporary Māori carvings at Toi Ake tā moko and art gallery. tairawhitigisborne.co.nz

Expect live music and wine tasting, Dutch fried oliebollen, baguettes, nuts and well-priced produce.